Heartwarming Hanoi

Immediately your attention is caught by the buzz-y streets! Yes, it's busy but it's also buzz-y from the myriad motorcycles that seem like bees hovering alongside your car as you make your way from the airport into town.

 

Certainly it's an analogy, but we have all watched some cartoon where our protagonist is chased by a swarm of angry bees. Travelling the streets of Hanoi may not differ much. Famed chef and restaurateur, Bobby Chinn, who is based in Hanoi, actually has a technique in traversing the streets that are criss-crossed by these two tired contraptions. You have to trust them to avoid you! That's right, once you step off the curb, you walk across at a steady pace and the cyclists will judge speed and distance and work their way around you. 

 

This is a pedestrians eye view of a wide lane near the center of Hanoi...

 

 

But I'm getting ahead of myself...

 

Our Hanoi holiday was taken in 2006 but I'm quite certain that to this day nothing much has changed. This historic city seemed suspended in time back then and it's unlikely to change that quickly.

Back then the best way to Hanoi was via Hong Kong. Cathay Pacific took you to their hub and Vietnam Air took you the rest of the way. Now, Cebu Pacific flies direct from Manila.

 

While flying over parts of Vietnam, I saw this curious body of water under our plane. When aloft, I usually find myself looking for interesting features below and this sort of reminded me of a Christmas tree.

 

 

Moving on, we finally arrived at the Sheraton and the room we were assigned to had a marvellous view of Hanoi's West Lake. Service at the Sheraton Hanoi was excellent! As our luck would have it, there were not many guests on our floor at that time (it must have been the heat) and we were really attended to superbly.

 

 

Hanoi has four seasons and November till March are the best months for a visit. Arriving in August wasn't pleasant for us because the mid-day heat can hover around 37C. Believe me when I say we learnt our lesson then and always check temperatures before planning trips. It wasn't a total write off, as you can always wait away the heat in the comfort of air conditioned rooms and step out when the air is more comfortable.

 

While there are less conventional means of going about town like riding on a rickshaw or on the rear of a motorbike, the primary means of transport for tourists is still by taxi cab. One can also take a leisurely walk alongside the many lakes and take in the pulse of the city. You are sure to see a lot of French colonial inspired architecture as well as stalls selling flowers, local food and the usual tourist merchandise.

 

 

Oh, and should your feet start to ache there are a lot of cozy indoor and outdoor cafes too...

 

 

Shoppers usually look for bargains in the shops found along the streets in the Old Quarter. Silk cloth and dresses, linen with beautiful French style embroidery, and lacquer ware are the most common items that are purchased. Be sure to haggle and take your time doing so, part of the experience is the art of the deal.

Speaking of art, Vietnam has seen an increased interest in its art and galleries will gladly take care of packing and shipping the paintings to your home. Don't bother looking for malls or shopping marts, and a lot of stores still don't have air conditioning; but this just adds to the old world charm of Hanoi.

Oh, there is also the Dong Xuan Market (Cho Dong Xuan) that one should not fail to explore. It is situated near the Old Quarter and sells anything and everything. Food, textile, clothing, accessories, appliances and electronics are in abundant variety.

  

One activity that is a must is a trip to Ha Long Bay. This quiet and serene location is composed of roughly 3,000 limestone islets and travelling the waters can take about a half day and usually includes a freshly cooked sea food lunch. Getting there would involve a  3 hour car ride from Hanoi. This would usually involve a bathroom break in a tourist rest stop selling more handicrafts and food items. This is one such place selling embroidered paintings. As our able Vietnamese guide said in accented English: "Look around is free..."

Once you get to the port, your guide will find out which boat will be assigned to you after paying for the appropriate fees. There are quite a number of boats co-existing with a short quay that getting to your vessel may include jumping through other boats. This is akin to passing through narrow alley ways to get to your destination.

 

Once you get under way, the expansive bay, the salty air and the waves slapping away at the boats hull provokes you to start taking deep breaths and release the stresses of the mind.

 

This Unesco World Heritage Site boasts of several features including beaches, lagoons and grottoes. The most visited feature however must be these two rock formations that looks like two chickens kissing...

 

Once in a while you will also sight merchants in canoes and floating fish pens scattered around the islands.

 

 

We were able to visit a lagoon but this entailed hopping on another canoe and extra fees. What was very striking to me though wasn't the expense or the place we were headed; it was the demeanour of our boatman. As much as I discreetly observed him or tried to get a reaction from him, he maintained this pragmatic expression on his face. It spoke to me of a difficult life, of enduring hardships, and maybe of countless days of worry. Or it could have been the heat...

 

This is the cave like entrance to the lagoon...

 T
This surprise from the Sheraton made us forget the long 3 hour ride back to Hanoi. We were very touched that they took the time out to congratulate us on our 1st wedding anniversary. I know I would want to come back for the 10th! Anyway, this was one of the best cakes I have had that I still drool when I think about it's moist creamy texture and rich ganache filling! Mmmmmmmm...

 

They also provide chocolates and pastries in the room every night when they turn the bed down. Did I mention the great complimentary buffet breakfast spread in the lobby? No? Well, it was...Mmmmmmmm...

One other attraction we visited was the Temple of Literature.  This temple, which is actually made up of a group of courtyards and pavilions, is not only a historical center of learning but also a place of worship.

This Confucian Temple has five gates that open into five courtyards. Each one with a different architectural form and function.

As you pass though the gate opening into the third courtyard, you are greeted by a pond that is flanked on both sides by numerous stelae which are in the form of turtles. The turtle is one of four of Vietnam's holy creatures and is a symbol of longevity. Of the original 116 stelae only 86 remain and in them are inscribed the names of those who passed the royal exams between 1442 and 1779.

 

While some courtyards contain gardens, some are paved with stone and are enclosed by pavilions that contain altars and halls.

 

 

 

 

The pace of life in Hanoi is very sedate, the food hearty and the people heart warming. It is one of the places I know where converting US$100 to their local currency makes you a millionaire. I will always fondly remember the kind gesture of the Sheraton Hanoi and all the advice and assistance they extended to us.

I hope to re-visit this beautiful city when the weather is cooler. I will miss dining at Bobby Chinn with the long red drapes hanging from the ceiling. I will always remember the sumptuous bowl of steaming hot pho we ate at the Vine Bar & Cafe near the Sheraton on our first night there; neither will I forget the great Indochine lunch at the Metropole. Oh, and I will make it a point to drop by Fanny's Ice Cream Parlour, located across Hoan Kiem Lake, it is made the traditional French way.

Just like visiting childhood friends or a favourite neighborhood hangout, some things are worth coming back to!

Flora - Gardens By The Bay

Singapore's latest addition to it's line up of tourist attractions never fails to impress. The Garden's By The Bay, situated beside the world renowned Marina Bay Sands, just opened it's doors to the public last June. It grounds are simply immense and the sights are surreal. Just take a gander at the Supertree Grove, huge steel canopies and light up at night.
 

 

One way to get there is by taking a cab, that's what we did. You can also take a bus or the MRT but with the MRT it's going to be quite a walk. No worries though, there are lots to see.

 

 

 

Other attractions in the Gardens are the Heritage Gardens, the Skyway, the Dragonfly and Kingfisher Lakes, various food outlets serving different cuisines, and a few event venues. The showpiece of the  Gardens however are undoubtedly the two cooled conservatories, The Flower Dome and The Cloud Forest.

 

 

 

The interior of these domes are a blessed respite from the heat, and you could literally feel the pores in your face closing up upon entering. Once you've acclimatized to your surroundings and embrace the ambiance, you then realize how much space there is inside. The Cloud forest is the smaller of the two encompassing 8,000 sq. m. and showcases flora found in humid tropical mountain regions. A man-made 115 foot waterfall greets you with a welcome spray of water near the entrance and the plants that fill the grounds are a delight to the senses.

 

 

 

 

The highest point of the structure is around 5 or 6 stories high and can be accessed by an elevator. The downward path is via escalators and catwalks that jut out over empty space.

 

 

As we worked ourselves out of The Cloud Forest, we passed a gaping lions mouth masquerading as a window. There is also an educational area that teaches us how the park has self-sustaining and ecological features that help decrease it's carbon footprint.

 

 

The Flower Dome is the larger of the two domes at 12,000 sq. m. and I believe the more impressive one. It's cool, dry interior replicates the environment found in the Mediterranean and semi-arid tropical regions.  The displays here are ever changing to reflect the flowers in bloom over the seasons. These baobab trees (I think) greet you across a wide courtyard.

 

 

As you wind down the path, you see an array of colourful blooms of different sizes and shapes.

 

 

These drooping flowers remind me of an oriental lantern. I hope that one day I will be able to create an actual lantern that mimics them.

 

 

 

Access to the park is free but entry to the conservatories will cost you between Sing$20 - 28. It is well worth the cost of admission though as there are no time restrictions and there are benches and seats available. You can linger as long as you want and appreciate nature at it's finest in relaxed comfort.